Crochet Wild Flower

This crochet wild flower pattern brings together two open blooms, a small bud and delicate three-point leaves on a long stem. Pale blue petals and cream centres create a soft accent for a handmade bouquet.

The written notes below cover the flower bases, bud, foliage, yarn centres and assembly. Read the petal verification note before starting: its Tunisian shaping sequence still needs a complete stitch check.

Explore our free crochet flower patterns for more bouquet ideas. For a separate botanical project you can save and follow offline, browse our flower and botanical PDF patterns.

Colour and Bouquet Ideas

Try blue with cream centres and green stems, or use pink, violet, ivory or yellow for the petals. Keep the yarn weights consistent across the pieces so the flowers, bud and leaves remain proportionate.

Use the slender branches between larger blooms to add a lighter texture. Several matching stems can also form a simple vase arrangement.

Materials

• Yarn: light blue for the flowers and bud, green for sepals, leaves and wrapping, and cream for the fluffy centres.
• Crochet hook: 2.5 mm as a starting point. The shaft must hold the short Tunisian forward-pass loops.
• Main flower rod: approximately 40 cm long × 2 mm diameter.
• Craft wire: two pieces approximately 40 cm long × 0.7 mm diameter for the flower centres and branches, plus a separate wire for the bud branch.
• Fiberfill for the bud.
• Stitch markers, scissors and tapestry needle.
• Pliers and suitable wire cutters.
• Hot-melt glue for assembly and securing the wrapping.

No fixed yarn quantities are specified. Choose the extra bud wire length to suit its position on the main stem, allowing enough wire for the top coil and attachment.

Difficulty and Gauge

Intermediate: the project combines joined rounds, front- and back-loop work, decreases, short Tunisian petal sections, yarn tuft centres and wire assembly.

No target gauge or finished size is specified, so there is no reference swatch measurement to match. Yarn weight, hook size and tension determine the dimensions. Check the shape and proportions of one sample before making multiple stems.

Stitches and Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

• ch: chain.
• ss: slip stitch.
• sc: single crochet.
• dc: double crochet.
• inc: 2 sc in the next stitch.
• sc2tog: single crochet two stitches together; one decrease.
• FLO: front loop only.
• BLO: back loop only.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• R: round.
• [number]: crochet stitch count, excluding starting chains and joining slip stitches.

Single Crochet Two Together — sc2tog

Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. This uses two stitches and produces one stitch.

Front and Back Loops

The front loop is the strand of the stitch top closest to you; the back loop is farther away. In the flower base, the green points use the front loops of Round 2. The blue petal base uses the remaining back loops of that same round.

Tunisian Forward and Return Passes

In a Tunisian forward pass, pick up loops along the row and retain them on the hook. In a standard return pass, yarn over and draw through one loop, then yarn over and draw through two loops repeatedly until one loop remains.

These are general mechanics. The petal notes below use the unclear term “Afghan sc” and do not specify all the pickup positions or return passes. That term should not be treated as an ordinary single crochet stitch.

Colour Inspiration

Pattern Notes

• The green base and bud are worked in joined rounds without turning unless instructed.
• Starting chains do not count as stitches. Join to the first actual stitch.
• Do not work into starting chains or joining slip stitches as extra base stitches.
• Keep the flower-base centre opening accessible until its wired cream centre has been inserted.
• Add stuffing to the bud before decreasing and closing it.
• Prepare two large leaf units and three small leaf units; each unit has three narrow points.

Flower Bases — Make 2

With green yarn, make a magic ring.

• R1: 6 sc into the ring, ss to the first sc. Leave the centre opening accessible for the flower wires. [6]
• R2: ch 1, 6 sc, ss to the first sc. [6]
• R3: work in the front loops of Round 2. Repeat six times: ch 5, starting in the second chain from the hook work 4 ss back along the chain, then ss into the next front loop of Round 2. The final anchor returns to the first front loop. [6 green points]

Fasten off the green yarn. Keep the six back loops of Round 2 available for the blue base.

Blue Petal Base — R4

Join blue yarn to the first unused back loop of green Round 2.

R4: (ch 2, inc in the next back loop, 1 sc in each of the following two back loops) twice. Ss to the first sc. [8 sc, plus two ch-2 sections]

The two repeats use all six green back loops and produce eight sc for the eight petal attachment positions. The ch-2 sections and joining ss are not extra petal anchors.

Petal Shaping — R5 Working Notes

This sequence needs verification before it can be used as a complete petal pattern. The recorded structure is to turn the work and repeat the following eight times, attaching each petal to the next sc of Round 4:

1. Ch 8, then work the section described as “8 Afghan sc” along the chain’s vertical bars.
2. Ch 2, work ss at the second vertical bar, then the section described as “5 Afghan sc”.
3. Ch 2, ss into the second chain from the hook, then ch 1 and work 7 sc along the petal edge.
4. Ss into the next sc of Round 4 to attach the petal, then repeat for the remaining petal positions.

The text does not establish whether “8 Afghan sc” includes the loop already on the hook, where the extra yarn-over belongs, where each return pass occurs, or exactly which seven edge positions receive sc. Do not replace those sections with ordinary sc or assume a final loop count. The photos show the intended elongated petal shape, but do not resolve the missing stitch sequence.

Flower Bud — Make 1

With blue yarn, make a magic ring.

• R1: ch 2, 12 dc into the ring. Tighten and ss to the first dc. [12]
• R2–R3: ch 1, 12 sc, ss to the first sc in each round. Work two rounds. [12 per round]

Add a small amount of fiberfill while the opening is accessible.

• R4: ch 1, sc2tog six times, ss to the first sc. [6]

Fasten off with a sewing tail. Thread it through the front loops of the six remaining stitches, draw the opening closed, secure and hide the end.

Bud Sepal — Make 1

With green yarn, make a magic ring, leaving its centre accessible for the bud-support wire.

• R1: 6 sc into the ring, ss to the first sc. [6]
• R2: (ch 6; starting in the second chain from the hook, work 5 ss back along the chain; ss into the next stitch of Round 1) six times. [6 narrow points]

The last anchor returns to the start. Ch 1, fasten off and leave a long tail. The anchoring ss between points is added explicitly in this version and needs a sample check.

Three-Point Leaves

This version uses one shared base chain for each leaf unit. Make a slip knot, ch 1 and mark that chain as the base. After each point, return to this same base with ss.

This is an untested adaptation of the unclear instruction to work as many slip stitches as chains. A chain of 13 has 12 return positions when starting in the second chain; the anchoring ss is worked into the separate base.

Large Leaf Units — Make 2

1. From the marked base, ch 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 12 ss back along the chain, then ss into the marked base.
2. Repeat the same ch-13 point once more.
3. Ch 10. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 9 ss, then ss into the marked base.
4. Fasten off with a long attachment tail. Each unit has two longer points and one shorter point.

Small Leaf Units — Make 3

1. From a new marked ch-1 base, ch 10. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 9 ss back along the chain, then ss into the base.
2. Repeat the same ch-10 point once more.
3. Ch 7. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 6 ss, then ss into the base.
4. Fasten off with a long attachment tail.

Cream Flower Centres — Make 2

Prepare two pieces of 0.7 mm wire, each approximately 40 cm long.

1. Wrap cream yarn around your fingers approximately 20 times to form a looped bundle. Slide it off carefully, keeping the loops together.
2. Pass one wire through the loops at one end of the bundle. Fold the wire in half and bind it firmly around that end with a short piece of cream yarn, leaving two wire tails for the branch.

3. Pass the second wire through the opposite end of the looped bundle. Fold and bind it in the same way.
4. Cut the yarn strands midway between the two wire bindings on both sides of the bundle, separating it into two tufts. Keep the wire bindings intact.

The tuft size depends on your finger spacing and yarn. Trim it gradually after fitting it into the flower rather than cutting it to its final size immediately.

Assembly

Assemble the stem after the petal sequence and adapted components have been checked on samples.

1. Fit the Flower Centres

Pass each centre’s doubled wire tails through the middle of a blue flower from front to back. Seat the yarn tuft against the flower centre. Tighten the green base opening around the wires, secure the crochet base and yarn binding, and trim the tuft to a rounded shape with strands approximately 1.2 cm long.

2. Prepare the Two Flower Branches

Wrap the first flower’s doubled wire with green yarn and bind one large leaf unit into its branch. Wrap the second flower’s wire and attach one small leaf unit. Cover the attachment tails and secure the wrapping ends with glue.

3. Prepare the Bud Support

Coil one end of the separate bud wire into a small rounded support with pliers. Feed the long wire end through the centre of the bud sepal so the coil rests inside the sepal. Secure the coil within the cup with a small amount of glue.

4. Attach the Bud

Place the closed blue bud over the coil and sepal centre. Secure the bud’s lower surface to the sepal with a small amount of glue. Keep the green points free to curve around the bud, then wrap its wire branch with green yarn.

5. Build the Main Stem

Bind the bud branch to the top section of the main flower rod with green yarn. Attach one of the two remaining small leaf units below it, then continue wrapping.

6. Add the Flowers and Remaining Foliage

1. Attach the first flower branch, already carrying its large leaf unit, at your chosen height.
2. Bind the last small leaf unit into the main stem below that attachment.
3. Add the second flower branch, already carrying its small leaf unit.
4. Attach the last large leaf unit lower on the main stem.
5. Continue wrapping to cover the rod and attachment wires. Secure the yarn end with glue and tuck it into the wrapping.

Leaf allocation: the finished branch uses two large and three small leaf units in total. One large and one small are on the flower branches; the remaining one large and two small are on the main stem.

Finish and Arrange Your Wildflowers

Adjust the angles of the branches and keep the flower heads at different heights for an open arrangement. Trim any loose yarn ends and check that the leaf bindings remain secure.

To explore other flower shapes, visit our free crochet flower pattern collection.

More Bouquet Inspiration

Use the reference photos below to compare fuller blooms, small flower clusters and foliage. The linked free tutorials are separate designs and may produce different shapes.

Try a Downloadable Wildflower PDF Project